Giritale Lake, Srilanka

In Srilanka, we din’t want to move between places like nomads. But, we wanted to visit all the places worth visiting in the region.

Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and Dambull were on the list of places we wanted to visit, before proceeding to Kandy. We wanted to choose a place which is close to all these places, so that we could visit these places as a single day excursion. It is possible to visit each of these places per day, as all these places are in the northern part of Srilanka.

We had 2 possible places to choose from. We could stay at Habarana or Giritale. Habarana is basically a town which is close to all the 4 historical sites I mentioned. It does not have any significance by itself.

But, Giritale has a large water tank created artificially by the ancient rulers to collect water, to be used later for irrigation. Giritale tank is surrounded by forest area which is marked as National forests in Srilanka. The famous Minneria National Park and Kaudulla National Park are here in this zone.

Therefore, staying in Giritale was the right thing to do. I love natural surroundings and am a sucker for ecologically beautiful places. The prospect of staying in a hotel with rooms and restaurants overlooking a large lake, with elephants and birds to look out for, helped us decide.

Giratale was going to be for center point for the trip. A search on google gave a huge list of hotels in this area. Lotus Pond, Deer Park hotel and Giritale hotel were some of the hotels which google threw up. Giritale hotel fit out budget. The images on their website really excited us.

After the spicy thali meals at Habarana, we reached Hotel Giritale by the evening. Mathow himself was very excited about taking us there, and kept telling us that the view from this hotel is fabulous.

When we got there, checked into our rooms and looked around the facilities we realized that Mathow was right, and that we had made the right decision.

All the rooms in Hotel Giritale overlook the lake, the bar, the restaurant and the resting area, all of them are designed to face the lake. The lake is huge, with large green islands in the middle, and the surrounded by low folding hillocks. The lake is surrounded by the Minneriya reserve area. The hotel had a telescope through which you could look for elephants and other animals. From the hotel we could see, the fishermen going in the lake for fishing. The sunset view from the hotel lobby and the swimming pool deck are stunning.

Giritale lake was built in the 12th century to collect rain water.

Srilanka is the first country in the world to set up a flora and fauna reserve park in Mihintale in 3rd Century BC. Now, over 12 % of land demarcated a reserve forest. These forests are home to elephants, leapords and a wide varieties of animals, birds and plants. 5 of the world endangered varieties of turtles are supposed to live on the Srilankan coasts.

The popular national parks are Minneriya, Kaudulla, Yala, Lahugala, Uda Walawe, Bundala and the Sinharaja National parks. There are in all 50 reserve forests. The one that attracts the maximum number of tourists is the Pinnewala elephant orphanage. It houses about 60 orphaned elephants and calves. Pinnewala is 72 kms from Colombo.

About the hotel, Giritale hotel is designed in ethnic style with ethnic style furniture in the lobby, reception and the waiting area. There is a lotus pond. The hotel is full of brass and terracotta and granite figurines of ancient kings and queens. The lighting is beautiful and the staff are very kind and pleasant. The hotel has rooms facing the lake as indicated earlier, some of them have balconies as well. Never the less, all rooms have access to the lawns below. The hotel also has a mutli cuisine restaurant, a bar, swimming pool and a Ayurvedic centre.

The hotel is full of monkeys that come from the nearly jungles. We had to keep our balcony doors closed at all the time because of this.

We spend the next 4 days at this place. Our daily routine was always same. We would wake up at 6.30 am, get ready, have out breakfast and leave for the destination of the day. Polonnaruwa is about 1 hr from Giritale, Anuradhapura was the farthest – 90 kms away, took 1 and half hour to reach, Sigiriya was 1 hr away. So, all the planned places were easily accessible. We could also go to Minneriya or Kaudulla for a wild life safari. One can also go to one of the nearby village to observe the life there. We had done enough safaris in India, and din’t want to explore that bit.

I was told that Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa need about 2 to 3 days to visit each and every spot slowly. Like all tourists we had just 1 day for each place. But, Mathow was thoughtful. He planned our day very well.

We always finished our sight seeing by 2 pm, had lunch in the local hotel and got back to Giritale hotel by about 4 pm. Then, we would take a quick nap, then, freshen for cocktails in the evening.

The bar and the waiting / resting area is a huge balcony overlooking the lake. Sipping tea or a cocktail there was a pleasure. All the time that I was day, we had a good sunset drama on the first day alone. It rained in the evening, which made the place cool, but, I never got to see another sunset because of this.

The food at this hotel is fabulous. We had the best breakfast possible. The dinner was awesome and the chef ensured that we had the best dessert. I completely forgot about my diet and indulged in eating mousse, 2 to 3 helpings on a daily basis. The food and the cocktails were amazing. I would never forget it.

Day 1 - Read Negembo, Srilanka.
Day 2 - Read Dambulla Golden Temple, Srilanka

Wilderness Trek in Bandipur

I have trekked in the Himalayas, but, I have to admit here, that I love jungle safaris, I love being close to places that have lots of trees and wild animals. I was thinking of how would it be to trek in the jungles..or may be go for a long. For people who wish for something, I believe, it comes true.

There is a Adventure Activity Planner in Bangalore called Capture Treks. Capture organizes weekend treks in places around Bangalore. By the way, there are loads of places in Karnataka that are great trekking locations. Karnataka is a heaven for adventure / nature lovers.

I received a email from Capture informing about the 2 day trek at Bandipur. Bandipur is about 240 kms from Bangalore. It is a protected forest area and it is a national park, with tigers, elephants, deers, sambhar, bison, langurs, peacocks, and several other species of animals and plants.

Capture trekking program includes transport from Bangalore to Bandipur, food, tents, guides and every thing else required. We were to just report at the pick up point, with our ruck sack. We were to carry sleeping bag or rugs and warm clothing for ourselves.

First I thought a 2 day trek may not be exciting at all, then, I thought why not try it once, before coming to any conclusion.

This time, I convinced my husband to join me. This was his first trek, and he was excited too.

We left on a Saturday morning. Our pick up point was at Kids kemp on MG road, and we reported at 5.45 am. There were others also at this place. We met our trekking co-ordinator Nag – a tall red haired chappy. He was chirpy and got tea from the local tea wallah in the morning for all of us. Trust me, that morning cuppa was extra sweet and was good.

We got into the Tempo traveler that was arranged for us, picked up some more people on the way, had break fast in one of the restaurants on the way, and zoomed towards Bandipur. Our driver had a very good sense of music, and had the best hindi film and remix songs. We got acquainted with the rest of the group members. All of them were people working in Bangalore. We were in 2 tempo travelers, and we were 24 people in all including the 3 trekking guides / co-ordinators who were with us.

We reached Bandipur at about 1 pm. Lunch was served – simple rotis and a sabji. I don’t expect exotic food while I am trekking. The group was quickly split into 3 of 8 members each. Each group was accompanied by one trekking co-ordinator. My groups co-ordinator was Nag. The ration was also split among the group members, we put all the things into our bags. We filled water. My group of 8 was cool…me, my hubby, a friend from Uttaranchal trek, and 4 other trekkers from Bangalore.

The 3 groups split and went our own way in the jungle. Apart from the trek guide, it was compulsory for us to have a forest guide along with us. Only they know all the paths in the jungle.

We started walking into the deep jungle. We were always on the footpath…but, the trees, the smell of fresh forest air was refreshing. The forest grass of the pre-monsoon showers had grown to a height of 7 feet, really tall, and their sharp blades were cutting the hands and other exposed parts of the body. There were several streams and rivulets in this part of the jungle. We spotted all the animals except the tiger. Tigers are shy and when they hear any sound, because of their shy and reclusive nature, they run away and hide. The tall grass was not helping us at all. So, it is possible to see all animals except the tiger, and to see one, one has to be really lucky. On that day, none of us were lucky.

After about 4 hrs of walking through bushes and tall grasses and crossing streams, walking little up hill and downhill, we were all getting a little tired. It was also raining continuously. And, trekking makes one get in touch with the self. If I were in the city, if it rained I would run for cover. But, while I am trekking, if it rains, I am supposed to wear a raincoat and proceed. We were expecting a lot of leachy pals. We had sprays and salt ready to get rid of them. The forest floor was slushy because of the rain, but, none of experienced a leachy encounter.

At about 5 pm, and after a lot of huffing and panting, we reached a really high point in the mountains. It was a elevated place, from where we could have a full view of the forest area around us. It was cloudy and we could see the clouds pass through us and get away. And, this was the right place for a anti-poaching camp. We did not carry our tent equipment with us, as we knew that we would camp in one of the anti-poaching camps.

The anti-poaching camp, is nothing but a small hut made of straw on top of a elevated place. There were 2 anti-poaching guards staying there. They had made a camp fire for themselves and were having a good time. The wind was blowing at a great speed, it was cold and was nice.

Nag, forced us to get up and stretch ourselves a bit. We played some whacky games. Some of the trekking friends along with them, some marinated chicken, with which we made a great barbecue. We had an awesome time, on top of the mountain, a cold wind blowing on our faces, and Chicken barbecue to eat. We yapped until we could not bear the cold wind. We ate rice and dal, and went to sleep inside the hut, all in a row. It was like a symphony inside the hut, all the men were snoring, and it was tough to sleep.

The next morning was refreshing. We woke up late like what we do if we were at our homes on a Sunday morning. We did our early morning sunda in the open area with cold wind blowing on our face. We had maggi, bread and jam, and tea and started trekking back to the starting point. This time it was much easier, as we knew what to expect.

We were to reach the starting point at 9.30 am, but, as we started late, we reached late. Trekking to Gopalaswamy betta was on the agenda, all 24 were tired and did not want to do any uphill climbing. And, we were terribly hungry. We got into the first restaurant on the way and hogged food. Then, we went to visit the Gopalaswamy bette temple by the tempo traveler. The journey back home was smooth, we reached home at about 10.30 pm.

The jungle trek was a great experience. My husband loved the experience, and is game for more. The cost of the entire trek was Rs. 1200 for the 2 day program, including transport and food. I think it is very economical and well organized.

Capture Treks also organizes Group treks, Family treks, White river rafting programs, parasailing and many other things.

Capture Treks : 98 /1, 1st floor, 30th Cross, 7th Block, Jaya Nagar, Bangalore – 82. Ph. 080 – 5696 1099. Email : capturetreks@yahoo.co.in. Contact : Krishna

Striped for Extra Pleasure - Tiger

I have visited Nagarhole National Park, BR Hills and Wyanad Wildlife Sanctury. I have gone on more than 8 safaris in these jungles, duration of 2 hrs each inside the Tiger heartland. Have still not seen a single tiger, not even a pug mark or its poop. It is said that only the lucky ones happen to spot them. It is easier to spot the leapords, but not the tiger.

Having read a bit about the elusive and shy animal, my respect for this creature has grown manifold, and I thought I put this piece together, so that tiger lovers can read it. The others might develop some interest too. And frankly, the tiger needs more lovers than poachers.
Tigers (and all other carnivores) have descended from civet-like animals called miacids that lived during the age of the dinosaurs about 60 million years ago. These small mammals, with long bodies and short flexible limbs, evolved over millions of years into several hundred different species, including cats, bears, dogs and weasels. Approximately 37 cat species exist today, including Panthera tigris, the tiger.

Tigers evolved in eastern Asia. Andrew Kitchener states in the book The Natural History of Wild Cats, that

"Fossil tigers are known from the Late Pliocene/Early Pleistocene of southeastern Asia. A small primitive tiger was living in North China during the Early Pleistocene. Between 1.3 and 2.1 million years ago, tigers were living in Java...from about two million years ago, tigers spread from their evolutionary centre in eastern Asia in two directions. Tigers moving through the Central Asian woodlands to the west and southwest gave rise to the Caspian tigers. Secondly, tigers from China moved to the east of the central Asian mountains to southeastern Asian and the Indonesian islands, and thence westwards to India (Hemmer, 1987)."
In spite of the misleading name, saber-toothed tigers are not the ancestors of today's tigers. In fact, saber-toothed tigers belonged to a separate branch of the cat family that became extinct many millions of years ago.

100 years ago there were 8 different kinds of tigers (subspecies) - there were over 100,000 wild tigers in the world. Today, there are only 5 tiger subspecies left and there are fewer than 7,000 wild tigers in the world. The main threats to tigers are poaching, loss of habitat, and population fragmentation.

Today only about 5000 - 7000 wild tigers live across Asia.

Amur or Siberian Tiger ( Panthera tigris altaica )
Estimated population : 360 – 406 in wild, 490 captive
Habitat : Coniferous, scrub oak and birchwoodlands of eastern Russis. Some in North Eastern China and North Eastern Korea
Size : They are the largest. Male : 3.3 m & 300 kgs, Female : 2.6 m & 167 kgs
Coloration : Orange coloring is paler, stipes are brown rather than black, white chest and belly with thick white ruff or fur around the nect.

Bengal Tiger ( Panthera tigris tigris )
The estimated wild population of Bengal tigers is approximately 3,159–4,715 tigers, with about 333 in captivity, primarily in zoos in India.
Estimated population : 3159 – 4715 in wild, 333 captive
Habitat : High altitude, cold, Himalayan coniferous forest, lush forests of Northern India, arid forests of Rajasthan, steaming mangroves of Sundarbans, swamp reedlands, scorched hills of Indian Peninsula, Nepal, Bangladesh, Bhutan and Myanmar. Tigers are found in the Himalayan valleys, and tracks have been recorded in winter slow at 3000 mts.
Size : Male : 2.9 m & 220 kgs, Females : 2.5 m & 140 kgs

White Tigers : All wild white tigers were a color variation of Bengal tigers. Wild white tigers were very rare, and none have been reported in the wild since the 1950s.White tigers in zoos are inbred and crossbred mixtures of Bengal and Siberian. They are neither albinos (in which case they would have pink eyes), nor a separate species; they have chocolate stripes and blue eyes, although several variations in eye and stripe color are seen. White tigers are only born to parents that both carry the recessive gene for white coloring.

The first white cub precursor to all the captive white tigers is believed to be one trapped by the Maharaja of Rewa, who found it orphaned in the jungle in 1951. Named Mohan, the cub was later mated to a normal-colored captive tigress who produced three litters with normal coloring. A few years later, Mohan mated with one of the offspring, producing the first litter of white cubs in captivity—these were to be the ancestors of others now in many zoos the world over. The white tigers are therefore called the Rewa tigers.

As of June 1998, there were 30 white tigers in U.S. zoos that participate in SSP (species survival plan) programs. No one knows how many more are in private hands.

Indochinese Tiger ( Panthera tigris corbetti )
Estimated Count : 1227 – 1785 in wild, 60 in zoos
Habitat : Thailand, Myanmar, South China, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Peninsular Malaysia.
Size : They are smaller. Males – 2.7 m & 180 kgs, Females : 2.4 m & 115 kgs
Colouration : They are darker than Bengal tigers

South China Tiger ( Panthera tigris amoyensis )
Estimated population : 20 – 30 in wild, 47 captive. Therefore these are most critically endangered
Habitat : Central and Eastern China
Size : Smallest tiger sub-species. Male : 2.5 m & 150 kgs, Females : 2.3 m & 110 kgs
Colouration : Short, broad stripes that are spaced far apart.
Sumatran Tiger ( Panthera tigris sumatrae )
About 400 wild Sumatran tigers are believed to exist, primarily in the island's five national parks. 210 captive animals live in zoos around the world.
Estimated population : 400 in wild, 210 captive
Habitat : Indonesian island of Sumatra. Lowland forest to sub mountain forest with peat-moss
Size : These are the smallest ones, Male : 2.4 m & 120 kgs, Female : 2.2 m & 90 kgs
Colouration : They have the darkest coat of all tigers. Its broad, black stripes are closely spaced and often doubled. They have striped forelegs as well, unlike the rest.

The Extinct Subspecies
Three tiger subspecies are considered to have become extinct in the past 70 years, the Caspian tiger, the Javan tiger and the Bali tiger.

The Caspian tiger, Panthera tigris virgata, once ranged in Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Mongolia, and the Central Asiatic area of Russia and probably went extinct in the 1950s.
The Javan tiger, Panthera tigris sondaica, formerly ranged on the Indonesian island of Java and was last seen in 1972.

The Bali tiger, Panthera tigris balica, once lived on Bali, where the last tiger was believed to have been killed in 1937. As far as we know, no photos of a live Bali tiger exist. One photo of a dead Bali tiger was taken in 1925.

Now, why are tigers in danger ?

The reasons are many.

They look beautiful, and hence foreigners like to buy their skin. The program on Natgeo – Wild Detectives indicated that a poacher sells a tiger skin for about INR 75,000 to a tout or middle man, who will inturn sell it off for INR 300000 in the international market. A leapard skin or a panthers skin is valued at INR 75000 in the international market.

Tiger, Panther and Leapords skins are a part of the Tibetans traditional dress. Many tourists who visit Tibet and willing to pay a higher price for a coat that has the real animal fur on it.

Tiger parts are a ingredient of Chinese medicines that are gaining popularity all over the world. They are considered to be amphrodisiacs. So, a number of tigers are trapped and killed every year to cater to these needs.

So, what can we do to save the tiger ?

Two things. Stop buying animal products, ie medicines with animal parts, ivory and stuff. Know more about the tiger. So, if you will stop buying, the killing can too. Oh, I flicked this line from a WWF campaign.

You can join a forest conservation program, so that that habitat of the tiger is protected.

I would like to write more about the nature of this elusive animal, but, then, it would become a very lengthy piece to read. So, I shall write more in a different article – part 2. Alright.

If any of you wants to come face to face with a tiger, you can get to any of these places. They are affordable, far away in the wilderness, and you are going to love the experience, and will resolve that you will go back again. Given below are a good mix of Tiger Reserves in India.

Nagarhole National Park ( Karnataka )
Kabini River Lodge & BR Hills ( A Jungle Lodges Property ), Email : Reservation@junglelodges.con, info@junglelodges.com, Ph : 91-80 – 25597201 / 91 – 80 – 25597025 / 91 – 80 - 25597025

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary
Chilligere Estate ( South Coorg )
South Coorg, is about 10 kms from Nagarhole NP and about 8 kms from Wyanad Wildlife sanctuary.
P.O. Box – 167, Manchally Village & Post,
Kutta, S. Kodagu. Pin – 571 250.
Ph : 08274 – 244265. Mobile : 94485 82596., Contact : Mr. T. T. Somaiah / Mrs. Banu.

Corbett National Park – ( Kumaon District,UP. Reachable from Lucknow )
Corbett Hideway, Tel :+(91)-(11)-26413304/26293905/26293906, Fax : +(91)-(11)-26413303E-mail : mailto:info@corbetthideaway.com,mcpaid@indiamart.com?subject=Leisure%20Hotels%20Limited%20Mail%20Through%20corbetthideaway.com
Camp Forktail Creek, Phone : 91- 5947- 287804, Email : info@campforktailcreek.com

Ranthambore National Park ( Rajasthan , Nearest Town Sawai Madhopur )
Sherbagh Hotel, Tiger Den Hotel, Tiger Moon Hotel – Contact : info@ranthamborenationalpark.com, Ph : 91-11-22717787,55268363

Bandavgarh National Park ( Tala District, Umaria, Bandavgarh, MP - 484661)
Tiger Forest Lodge : 91-(07653) 65308.
Bandavgarh Safari Camp : 91-(07653) 65322
Bandavgarh Nature Heritage Resort : 0240 – 22381 160
Bandavgarh Jungle Lodge : 91-65317

Kanha National Park – ( Morcha Village , P.O. Kisli - Kanha National Park , District Mandla ,Madhya Pradesh 481768 . India )
Kipling Camp , Ph : + 91-33-2473 3306 , Cable: Tollygunge Club, Calcutta-33 Email: info@kiplingcamp.com

Sundarbans ( Goshaba, Basunti, Sonakhali or Port Canning – about 50 kms from Kolkata )
Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge : Tel: 03463-52699 Fax: 03463-52398

Kutta - South Kodagu

We had been planning Coorg for 5 yrs now, and every time we got a long break, we opted for farther destination. But, this time, during Vijayadasami, we decided it was time for Coorg. We were heading to Kutta, in South Kodagu.

Coorg district is very beautiful with scattered villages, hamlets with a few townships. Coffee and pepper are the most cultivated crops here making driving / walking around Coorg a desirable option . The Cauvery has its starting point here at Talacauvery. Madikeri is the capital of Coorg, and all the important tourist centers – Talacauvery, Bhagamandala, Nisarghadhama, Kushal Nagar, Harangi Dam, Abbey falls etc are about 30 to 50 kms from Madikeri. That’s why most people prefer to go to Madikeri.

But, we went to the other direction towards the South, closer to Kerala, to Kutta, where you can still hear the birds chirping and the sound of the leaves moving in the breeze.

We started driving in from Bangalore at 7.30 am in the Morning. Our Maruti Zen is used to all kinds of roads. Kutta is about 236 kms from Bangalore while Madikeri is 257 kms. The route is Bangalore – Mysore – Hunsur – Nagarhole – Kutta and it takes 6 hrs to traverse the distance.

The most beautiful part of the journey began as soon as we crossed Mysore and drove towards Hunsur. You enter the forest area here. The roads are superb and we drove at a speed 90 kms per hr and we didn’t have to jam the breaks at too many places. On Hunsur Road, one reaches a point where the road splits into a fork. The road on the left leads to Nagarhole and the road on the right, leads to Madikere. Madikere is about 85 kms from here.

Driving through Nagarhole is a pleasure. You will have to stop at the entrance gate of the National Park, and enter details pertaining to your car and your destination in a register. After this you drive through the tiger and elephant country. I had been to the Nagarhole park earlier, I have seen loads of elephants, deers, bisons, langurs, peacocks etc..but not the elusive tiger. This time, as we were driving in our car, we saw a herd of elephants, several groups of deers, peacocks and langurs.

After about 45 mins of drive through the forests, we reached Kutta. Kutta is a small town with a population of about 5000 people. People who own estates here grow coffee, spices, betel nuts, paddy and banana’s. Kutta is very close to Kerala border and hence a lot of people here speak Malayalam fluently.

We reached Chilligere home stay. I had a booking to stay in this place. Chilligere is a 100 acre estate of coffee, pepper, betel nut and banana plantations. The home is 100 years old and is constructed in ethnic style - Tiles for roofs and Red oxide flooring. The home is surrounded by the plantations and a lovely garden with the most exotic roses, chrysanthemums, dahlias, bougainvilleas, marigolds, with a small lotus pond too…you name the flower and it was there.

Kutta is strategically located. 10 kms north is the Nagarhole National park, and about 8 kms south is the Wyanad wildlife sanctuary. We arranged for a jeep and a guide who would take us to Wyanad – Bargur wildlife sanctuary ( Tholpetty Forest Range ). The jeep driver would take you inside jungle also, as he is adept with the routes inside. The cost for the jeep as well as the guide is about Rs. 525. The Bargur Sanctuary is open from 7 am to 9 am and from 3 pm to 6 pm. The Nagarhole park is open from 6 am to 9 am and from 4 pm to 6 pm.

Irpu falls is 8 kms away, and is inside the Bhrahmagiri wild life sanctuary. The falls is about 58 feet high, the river is called Lakshman Thirtha. The water fall is heavy with lots of water pouring down. You can bathe under the fall. If you wish to avoid the crowd, you need to be there in the morning. Below the falls is the Ram Thirtha Temple. Lakshman thirtha flows and joins Cauvery in Mysore. This wild life sanctuary is supposed to be home for the world’s most beautiful butterflies and a unique variety of peacocks. I did not see any though.

Bhrahmagiri mountain is about 8 kms from Chilligere estate, and is a haven for all the adventurous people, who love to trek. Permission needs to be obtained from the forest officials to trek to the peak.

Tirunelly temple in Kerala is about 20 kms from Kutta, The temple is old and is built in the typical Kerala style. Behind the temple is the Panchatheertam river ( it is merely a small stream ), where all the devotees take a dip before offering their prayers. One needs to drive through Wyanad jungles and trust me, the roads in Kerala are better than the ones in Karnataka.

Pookot lake is about 70 kms from Kutta. We had to drop this place as we wanted to spend more time in Kutta.

As Chilligere is a home stay we were treated with the most exotic Kodagu cuisine. Pandi curry ( Pig cooked in loads of Ginger and Garlic ) and Kadambut ( Rice Dumplings ), Kozhi Curry ( Chicken curry ) and Paaputtu ( Rice cake ) and Kozhi Curry and Nooputtu ( Rice Noodles ) and Bamboo shoots / sprouts preparations. The Coffee is extremely addictive as it is homegrown. Banu aunty will give you a choice of home made wines – made of betel leaves, pineapples and fruits.

We spent a lot of time walking through the town and through the plantations. The entire place was green and very quite. Kutta also have a river flowing through it – Lakshman Theertha. You can picnic at this spot, if you wish to.

It was Sunday afternoon and was time to leave. We started driving back to Bangalore from Kutta at about 1.30 pm after a sumptuous meal. We reached Bangalore at 7.30 pm.

Getting there : Hey, this is a road trip. Bangalore – Mysore – Hunsur – Nagarhole – Kutta. Total 236 kms through jungles and coffee plantations.

Nearest railway station : Mysore, Mangalore and Hassan ( 146 kms )

Nearest airports : Mangalore ( 135 kms ) and Bangalore ( 236 kms )

Where to stop : About 30 mins into driving from Bangalore towards Mysore , Kamat Hotel is on the Mysore Road. This place is the best bet for breakfast buffet. Idly, vada, sambar, chutney, masala dosa, kesari, kichadi, upma and fruit juice are on the menu. You will get the best coffee ever here, which is also in the menu.

Café Coffee day is also close by. The queue here is longer. Those who like pudding, cakes, puffs, samosas, mousse and tarts can stop here.

Best time : November to March. If you visit during the December / January, the coffee seeds are red in he plant, and it is a site to view.

Trip duration : 3 days

Where to stay :

Chilligere Estate
P.O. Box – 167, Manchally Village & Post,
Kutta, S. Kodagu. Pin – 571 250.
Ph : 08274 – 244265. Mobile : 94485 82596.
Contact : Mr. T. T. Somaiah / Mrs. Banu.

There are no hotels here and hence home stays are the only option in Kutta. There are several other estates, but I suggest Chilligere.

Nagarhole National Park

I was not a wild life lover then. I had seen a couple of ads on TV that said ‘If the buying can stop, the killing can too’ and stuff. I had never been to a jungle to sight animals. I had trekked in the jungles, accept the occasional chirping of the mynah or the woodpecker’s peck, nothing else was heard or seen.

I was adamant that the next long weekend would be in a jungle, and that I should spot a tiger. After a lot of evaluation, we decided to go to Nagarhole National Park ( NP ) and had taken a 2N/3D package from Jungle lodges and resorts.

Nagarhole NP covers an area of 572 sq. km the altitude of the Park varies between 700-850 metres. The maximum temperature reaches 33 degrees C and the minimum is 14 degrees. The Park mainly consists of moist deciduous forest in the northern and western parts and dry deciduous forest in the south-eastern part. A unique feature of these forests is the open grassy swamps, locally called hadlus, where the grass is lush all year-round. The swamps are numerous due to the high rainfall. Plantations of teak and species of eucalyptus cover much of the park. The name Nagarhole is derived from the Kannada word `Naga' meaning `snake' and `Hole' meaning `streams'. A number of streams snake through the rich tropical forests of Nagarhole. These forests are ideal for elephants. Apart from the elephants, the principal wildlife is the tiger, panther, chital, sambar, and sloth bear. Primates include langur, bonnet macaque and slender loris. Notable carnivores are tiger (in larger numbers than in Bandipur National Park), leopard, jungle cat, jackal, wild dog and sloth bear. Herbivores include elephant, spotted deer, sambar and gaur. Over 250 species of birds are present, including the malabar trogon and malabar pied-hornbill and birds of prey such as crested hawk-eagle and crested serpent-eagle. Nagarhole is part of a protected complex that includes Bandipur, Wayanad and Mudumalai wildlife sanctuaries.

Finally the weekend arrived. We left Bangalore on a Friday morning. Kabini River Lodge is situated 5 km off the Mysore-Mananthavadi Road, in the south western part of the Nagarhole NP. This place is called so as it is on the banks of the River Kabini which is a tributary of river Cauvery. Kabini Dam on the river, forms a lake, near which the lodge is located.

The route to Kabini is Bangalore – Mysore – Mananthavadi Road…there are lot of sign boards that enable s can reach the lodge easily. It takes about 6 hrs to reach Kabini from Bangalore. The road leading to Mysore is bad, and the roads in Nagarhole towards the Lodge are equally bad.

The lodge has accommodation of 3 types – tents, cottages and rooms in a guest house. This guest house used to be thehunting bungalow of the local Raja. It accommodates guests now. The rooms are well equipped, but there is no TV or AC. Your tent / cottage / room opens to the lake or to the jungle, and the scene is treat to any nature lover. Food is served in Golghar ( round house ) which is close to the lake.

The schedule at Kabini is very tight. Most people reach the lodge at around 1 pm, and hence people have lunch on arrival. After which there is about 2 hrs for rest. People can take a walk and see the property or walk by the lake. There are 2 tree houses in front of the lake. One can climb up and have a view of the surroundings. The water of the dam has immersed several trees, and hence you will see the dead trunks of the trees jutting out of the water. There are a variety of birds perched on these branches.

Everyone is supposed to report at the Golghar at 4 pm for Chai Biskoot, after which you are assigned to a forest guide. The Chief Naturalist here is Mr. Sarath, he will tell you about the NP and its flora and fauna, the number of elephants, tigers, other wild cats, deers, and he will explain fundas like prey base, tiger census etc.

The Evening Safari lasts for about 2 – 3 hrs. You are taken in a 4 wheel drive Mahindra jeep – the best bet for the jungles. The driver and the guide know exactly where to look for animals, and they recognize all the sounds. Kabini has a large variety of animals and plants, and perhaps nowhere else can one see so much of it. Elephants, sambhar, spotted deer, gaur, wild boar, sloth bear, wild dogs are spotted regulary. You are also sight peacocks, jungle fowls, Crested serpent eagles, exotic mynahs among others.

After the safari, the Lodge screens a wild life film. I was shown a film by Natgeo, about a panther. It was too good. The film was shot in Nagarhole NP.

It was time for dinner. Kabini also has a bar, with a good choice of drinks. Dinner is served in Golghar.

The next day starts really early. A chai wala wakes you up at 5.30 am and gives you either Tea or Coffee, depending on what you ask for. At 6 am, a jeep comes to your room / tent / cottage to take you for the coricle ride. Coricle is a small flat tray shaped boat, made of bamboo bark, whose bottom is flanked with rubber. You are given life jackets for safety. You are taken on a ride in the lake for about 45 mins. I am told that the lake is about 70 ft deep in summer, and can get about 100 feet deep in winter. Am also told there are crocs in the lake, hence it is not advisable to put your hands in the water. The dead trees that stand out of the lake make a very beautiful view. There are a variety of birds in this place. After the ride, we are taken back to the lodge.

You are free for the entire day. Once can sit near the lake, or spend time on the tree house. One can get a guide and also go for trekking in the jungle. Or, you can just sleep in your tent.
In the evening, it is time again for the Safari. It is easy to spots the eleghants, deers, gaurs and langurs, but not the tiger. After the safari, we were back at the lodge. Instead of the jeep safari, one can opt of a elephant safari. Kabini has a couple of domestic elephants for this purpose.
In the evening, a different wild life film is shown. After which one can have dinner and sleep in peace.

The next morning, we opted for a safari again instead of the coricle ride. Most people opt for the Safari , just in case we get lucky and spot the tiger. But, we were not lucky. I think we have to go back to Kabini again for this.

It was about 11 am on day 3, and hence, it was time to leave Kabini and head back to Bangalore, to our homes, our office and everything else.

The trip was sooo satisfying, that I decided that I have to see a tiger asap. After Kabini trip I have developed a special love for tigers and have read up a lot of content about tigers on the net in my free time.

Getting there : Road is best. Bangalore – Mysore – Mysore Mananthavade Road – Kabini. Kabini is about 80 kms from Mysore.

Nearest railway station : Mysore, Mangalore ( 146 kms )

Nearest airports : Mangalore ( 135 kms ) and Bangalore ( 236 kms )

Where to stop : About 30 mins into driving from Bangalore towards Mysore , Kamat Hotel is on the Mysore Road. This place is the best bet for breakfast buffet. Idly, vada, sambar, chutney, masala dosa, kesari, kichadi, upma and fruit juice are on the menu. You will get the best coffee ever here, which is also in the menu.

Café Coffee day is also close by. The queue here is longer. Those who like pudding, cakes, puffs, samosas, mousse and tarts can stop here.

Best time : Summer is the best time, te water holes are dry and hence lot of animals visit the lake as this is the only water hole source available. It is not easy to sight animals in the winter – during the rainy season, as there are lots of water holes, and hence the animals can remain where they are.

Trip duration : 3 days

Where to stay :

Kabini River Lodge ( A Jungle Lodges Property )
Email : Reservation@junglelodges.con, info@junglelodges.com
Ph : 91-80 – 25597201 / 91 – 80 – 25597025 / 91 – 80 - 25597025

Jungle Inn
68 kms from Mysore, 20 kms from Hunsur. It provides tented accommodation, and provides all the activities that Kabini provides – Jeep safaris, wild life film screening, coricle ride, the extra item is the tribal dance in the eveing. They also take people to a Tibetan Monastery. Contact : Infodesk@karnatakatourism.com

Chilligere Estate
It is a homestay set amidst coffee and pepper plantations in South Coorg, is about 10 kms from Nagarhole NP and about 8 kms from Wyanad Wildlife sanctuary. They do not offer organized Safari’s and Coricle rides. Once needs to make arrangements for these separately.
P.O. Box – 167, Manchally Village & Post,
Kutta, S. Kodagu. Pin – 571 250.
Ph : 08274 – 244265. Mobile : 94485 82596.
Contact : Mr. T. T. Somaiah / Mrs. Banu.