Kutta - South Kodagu

We had been planning Coorg for 5 yrs now, and every time we got a long break, we opted for farther destination. But, this time, during Vijayadasami, we decided it was time for Coorg. We were heading to Kutta, in South Kodagu.

Coorg district is very beautiful with scattered villages, hamlets with a few townships. Coffee and pepper are the most cultivated crops here making driving / walking around Coorg a desirable option . The Cauvery has its starting point here at Talacauvery. Madikeri is the capital of Coorg, and all the important tourist centers – Talacauvery, Bhagamandala, Nisarghadhama, Kushal Nagar, Harangi Dam, Abbey falls etc are about 30 to 50 kms from Madikeri. That’s why most people prefer to go to Madikeri.

But, we went to the other direction towards the South, closer to Kerala, to Kutta, where you can still hear the birds chirping and the sound of the leaves moving in the breeze.

We started driving in from Bangalore at 7.30 am in the Morning. Our Maruti Zen is used to all kinds of roads. Kutta is about 236 kms from Bangalore while Madikeri is 257 kms. The route is Bangalore – Mysore – Hunsur – Nagarhole – Kutta and it takes 6 hrs to traverse the distance.

The most beautiful part of the journey began as soon as we crossed Mysore and drove towards Hunsur. You enter the forest area here. The roads are superb and we drove at a speed 90 kms per hr and we didn’t have to jam the breaks at too many places. On Hunsur Road, one reaches a point where the road splits into a fork. The road on the left leads to Nagarhole and the road on the right, leads to Madikere. Madikere is about 85 kms from here.

Driving through Nagarhole is a pleasure. You will have to stop at the entrance gate of the National Park, and enter details pertaining to your car and your destination in a register. After this you drive through the tiger and elephant country. I had been to the Nagarhole park earlier, I have seen loads of elephants, deers, bisons, langurs, peacocks etc..but not the elusive tiger. This time, as we were driving in our car, we saw a herd of elephants, several groups of deers, peacocks and langurs.

After about 45 mins of drive through the forests, we reached Kutta. Kutta is a small town with a population of about 5000 people. People who own estates here grow coffee, spices, betel nuts, paddy and banana’s. Kutta is very close to Kerala border and hence a lot of people here speak Malayalam fluently.

We reached Chilligere home stay. I had a booking to stay in this place. Chilligere is a 100 acre estate of coffee, pepper, betel nut and banana plantations. The home is 100 years old and is constructed in ethnic style - Tiles for roofs and Red oxide flooring. The home is surrounded by the plantations and a lovely garden with the most exotic roses, chrysanthemums, dahlias, bougainvilleas, marigolds, with a small lotus pond too…you name the flower and it was there.

Kutta is strategically located. 10 kms north is the Nagarhole National park, and about 8 kms south is the Wyanad wildlife sanctuary. We arranged for a jeep and a guide who would take us to Wyanad – Bargur wildlife sanctuary ( Tholpetty Forest Range ). The jeep driver would take you inside jungle also, as he is adept with the routes inside. The cost for the jeep as well as the guide is about Rs. 525. The Bargur Sanctuary is open from 7 am to 9 am and from 3 pm to 6 pm. The Nagarhole park is open from 6 am to 9 am and from 4 pm to 6 pm.

Irpu falls is 8 kms away, and is inside the Bhrahmagiri wild life sanctuary. The falls is about 58 feet high, the river is called Lakshman Thirtha. The water fall is heavy with lots of water pouring down. You can bathe under the fall. If you wish to avoid the crowd, you need to be there in the morning. Below the falls is the Ram Thirtha Temple. Lakshman thirtha flows and joins Cauvery in Mysore. This wild life sanctuary is supposed to be home for the world’s most beautiful butterflies and a unique variety of peacocks. I did not see any though.

Bhrahmagiri mountain is about 8 kms from Chilligere estate, and is a haven for all the adventurous people, who love to trek. Permission needs to be obtained from the forest officials to trek to the peak.

Tirunelly temple in Kerala is about 20 kms from Kutta, The temple is old and is built in the typical Kerala style. Behind the temple is the Panchatheertam river ( it is merely a small stream ), where all the devotees take a dip before offering their prayers. One needs to drive through Wyanad jungles and trust me, the roads in Kerala are better than the ones in Karnataka.

Pookot lake is about 70 kms from Kutta. We had to drop this place as we wanted to spend more time in Kutta.

As Chilligere is a home stay we were treated with the most exotic Kodagu cuisine. Pandi curry ( Pig cooked in loads of Ginger and Garlic ) and Kadambut ( Rice Dumplings ), Kozhi Curry ( Chicken curry ) and Paaputtu ( Rice cake ) and Kozhi Curry and Nooputtu ( Rice Noodles ) and Bamboo shoots / sprouts preparations. The Coffee is extremely addictive as it is homegrown. Banu aunty will give you a choice of home made wines – made of betel leaves, pineapples and fruits.

We spent a lot of time walking through the town and through the plantations. The entire place was green and very quite. Kutta also have a river flowing through it – Lakshman Theertha. You can picnic at this spot, if you wish to.

It was Sunday afternoon and was time to leave. We started driving back to Bangalore from Kutta at about 1.30 pm after a sumptuous meal. We reached Bangalore at 7.30 pm.

Getting there : Hey, this is a road trip. Bangalore – Mysore – Hunsur – Nagarhole – Kutta. Total 236 kms through jungles and coffee plantations.

Nearest railway station : Mysore, Mangalore and Hassan ( 146 kms )

Nearest airports : Mangalore ( 135 kms ) and Bangalore ( 236 kms )

Where to stop : About 30 mins into driving from Bangalore towards Mysore , Kamat Hotel is on the Mysore Road. This place is the best bet for breakfast buffet. Idly, vada, sambar, chutney, masala dosa, kesari, kichadi, upma and fruit juice are on the menu. You will get the best coffee ever here, which is also in the menu.

Café Coffee day is also close by. The queue here is longer. Those who like pudding, cakes, puffs, samosas, mousse and tarts can stop here.

Best time : November to March. If you visit during the December / January, the coffee seeds are red in he plant, and it is a site to view.

Trip duration : 3 days

Where to stay :

Chilligere Estate
P.O. Box – 167, Manchally Village & Post,
Kutta, S. Kodagu. Pin – 571 250.
Ph : 08274 – 244265. Mobile : 94485 82596.
Contact : Mr. T. T. Somaiah / Mrs. Banu.

There are no hotels here and hence home stays are the only option in Kutta. There are several other estates, but I suggest Chilligere.